“The Rolex 1655 Explorer II: Steve McQueen’s Watch… or Is It?”

Keywords: Rolex 1655, Explorer II, Steve McQueen watch, vintage Rolex, history of Rolex Explorer

The Rolex 1655 Explorer II: Steve McQueen’s Watch… or Is It?

Among vintage Rolex enthusiasts, few models stir quite as much quiet admiration as the Explorer II Ref. 1655 — a watch that didn’t make much of a splash when it launched in the early ’70s, but has become something of a cult classic ever since.

With its bold orange 24-hour hand and unusually busy dial, the 1655 is affectionately known as the “Steve McQueen Rolex”, despite the fact that the legendary actor almost certainly never wore one. But let’s not allow the truth to spoil a good nickname.

A Watch Designed for the Shadows

Introduced in 1971, the 1655 wasn’t built to dazzle. It was a serious tool watch, developed for cave explorers and speleologists — people who quite literally spend their time in the dark.

The concept was simple: when you’re underground for days on end, it’s easy to lose track of day and night. So Rolex added a fixed 24-hour bezel and a large, arrow-shaped hand to help the wearer distinguish AM from PM at a glance.

Practical? Very. Stylish? Debatable at the time. But over 50 years later, the charm is undeniable.

The McQueen Myth

Although the watch is forever associated with Steve McQueen, the claim doesn’t hold up under scrutiny. There’s no solid photographic evidence of him wearing a 1655 — in fact, he was more commonly seen with a Submariner (Ref. 5512) on his wrist.

So how did the association begin? Most likely, it was the work of a savvy auction house in the 1980s. Attach a famous name to a forgotten watch, and suddenly you’ve got a story collectors can rally around.

Regardless of the truth, the name has stuck — and now the 1655 is inextricably tied to the cool, understated charisma McQueen embodied.

Why It’s Loved Today

When it first launched, the Explorer II 1655 wasn’t a strong seller. Many found it too odd, too cluttered, too niche.

But now? It’s a different story:

• It’s rare – Especially in good, unpolished condition with original tritium lume.

• It’s unusual – Unlike the more common Submariners or GMTs, the 1655 still feels somewhat under-the-radar.

• It’s full of character – With its bold orange hand and densely printed dial, it stands out without trying too hard.

Spotting the Details

There are several versions (or “Marks”) of the 1655, each with subtle differences. Collectors get excited about font shapes, hand lengths, and lume plots — the kind of obsessive detail that makes the world of vintage Rolex so rewarding.

And while modern Explorer IIs have moved on in style and size, none quite capture the 1655’s quirky charm.

Should You Consider One?

If you appreciate heritage, utility, and watches with genuine backstory, the 1655 is hard to beat. It’s not showy. It’s not loud. But it says a lot about the person wearing it — quietly, and confidently.

At Box and Docs Ltd, we have a deep respect for Rolex references like the 1655 — the models that weren’t instant hits, but have more than earned their place in horological history.